Laksa, mee soto and other noodle soups: a beginner's map

Curry laksa

Curry laksa, found in both Singapore and Malaysia (where it is often called curry mee), is a coconut-milk curry broth with rice noodles, prawns, fishcake, tau pok (fried beancurd puffs), bean sprouts and cockles. A good broth is rich and fragrant from dried shrimp and rempah (spice paste), with a gentle heat rather than a burning one.

Katong-style laksa cuts the noodles short so the whole bowl can be eaten with only a spoon. If a stall advertises 'Katong laksa', expect that style.

Assam laksa

Assam laksa, a Penang classic found across Malaysia, is a completely different dish: a sour, tamarind-and-fish broth with mackerel, pineapple, mint and prawn paste. It has no coconut milk. If you dislike rich food, assam laksa is the lighter choice.

Other soups worth trying

Mee soto is a turmeric-tinted chicken soup with yellow noodles, often found at Malay stalls. Fishball noodle soup is clear and light. Bak kut teh is a peppery or herbal pork-rib soup usually eaten with rice and dough fritters. Yong tau fou lets you choose your own pieces of vegetables and stuffed tofu, served in clear soup or laksa gravy.

Judging a bowl

The broth should taste layered, not salty-flat. Noodles should be springy, not soggy, which means the stall cooks to order. Fresh toppings — plump prawns, crisp bean sprouts — show the stall turns stock over quickly, which usually means it is popular.

Spice and diet notes

Curry laksa contains shrimp and often cockles, so it is not suitable for shellfish allergies. Many Malay stalls are halal-certified (MUIS in Singapore, JAKIM in Malaysia); look for the certificate on the stall front. Set your spice level and diet in My taste and Food Hunter will lean towards matching stalls.